What Is Chemical Exfoliation?

Chemical peeling is currently a very common aesthetic treatment offered in beauty salons. Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), particularly glycolic acid, are primarily used to address enlarged facial pores and excessive sebum production. By applying AHAs, aged keratinocytes in the stratum corneum can be effectively removed, restoring skin smoothness and radiance, thereby comprehensively resolving various skin concerns. However, the concentration and dosage of AHAs must be strictly controlled to avoid excessive acidity that could damage the skin.

What Is Chemical Peeling?

In simple terms, chemical peeling involves applying an acid solution of a specific concentration to promote exfoliation of the stratum corneum, accelerate removal of dead skin cells, and enhance overall skin cell turnover—ultimately fostering the formation of a new, healthier epidermal layer.

Individuals with sensitive or thin skin should avoid chemical peels entirely; only healthy, resilient skin is suitable for this treatment. Strict sun protection is essential during and after peeling: as old keratinocytes shed and new ones have not yet fully matured, the skin’s natural protective barrier is temporarily weakened, rendering it significantly more vulnerable to direct UV damage. Although results from chemical peels are often dramatic, overenthusiastic or overly frequent application can severely compromise skin integrity.

Salicylic acid is highly effective against blackheads, whiteheads, and closed comedones. Among available products, “Shangshuiheji” (Up & Up) salicylic acid solutions are widely recommended—affordable, generously sized, and well-received by many users. Paula’s Choice formulations also perform reliably. Retinoic acid (tretinoin) is indicated for severe closed comedones, pustular papules, and keratosis pilaris—but as a prescription medication, its use should always be supervised by a dermatologist. Azelaic acid (available in The Ordinary line) offers mild skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory benefits, making it suitable for acne-prone skin; however, its effects are comparatively gentle and less pronounced. Glycolic acid at 3% concentration provides hydration, while 4% promotes keratinocyte exfoliation. High-concentration glycolic acid carries significant risks—including epidermal thinning and even chemical burns.

During chemical peeling, incorporating a gentle scrub can complement exfoliation by physically removing surface keratinocytes and enhancing peel efficacy. However, physical exfoliation should be limited to once weekly; overuse may cause irritation or barrier disruption. If allergic reactions occur following physical exfoliation prior to peeling, this suggests an already-thin stratum corneum—making additional mechanical exfoliation unnecessary. Begin peeling only after gradually building skin tolerance. For two weeks before initiating active peels, incorporate low-concentration AHA skincare products to precondition the skin and improve its ability to tolerate higher concentrations. Recommended options include SkinCeuticals Glycolic Renewal Cleanser, BOROPLUS Supermolecular Salicylic Acid Mask, and CeraVe SA Renewing Lotion.

When undergoing professional glycolic acid peels, treatment should always begin with low concentrations and be repeated every 2–4 weeks. As tolerance increases, your dermatologist or licensed aesthetician will incrementally raise the acid concentration to optimize clinical outcomes. For oily skin, sessions are typically scheduled every two weeks; for normal or dry skin, every three weeks is advised. Consistency is critical: treatment intervals must not exceed four weeks. Otherwise, you’ll need to restart the entire process at the lowest concentration—wasting both time and money.

Although chemical peels yield rapid, visible improvements, they accelerate epidermal turnover, temporarily compromising skin resilience. During this vulnerable phase, avoid using irritating or aggressive skincare products, and minimize prolonged sun exposure to prevent further skin damage.